Environmental Practices

Environmental Practices

Windbreaks for Winter Savings
In a windy site, a windbreak or shelterbelt planting can account for up to 50 percent wind reduction with a 20 to 40 percent reduction in heating fuel consumption. In a calmer spot, wind barriers can still reduce fuel use by 10 percent or more.
A wind barrier that permits 50 to 60 percent wind penetration is more effective than a solid barrier because it provides a larger area of protection on the leeward side. Evergreen conifers (needle-leaf trees) are a perfect barrier to winter winds.

The correct location of a windbreak is essential to its ability to cut fuel consumption. Windbreaks should be placed at right angles to the prevailing winter wind. The windbreak should be longer than the area to be protected. Wherever space permits, an extension on the east side will help, too. Generally, savings from windbreaks increase as the protected perimeter of a house increases; however, even only a few well-placed trees make a difference.

Choose a relatively fast-growing, dense conifer species with stiff branches that will mature at a height about 11/2 times the height of the house. The species should retain branches low to the ground at maturity.

Spacing. The effectiveness of a windbreak generally increases with each added row, up to five rows. With dense trees such as spruce, two rows are usually the most cost-effective. The spacing of trees within a windbreak depends on the species used. Pine and spruce should be placed about 6 feet apart in the rows. Cedar and arborvitae should be 3 to 4 feet apart. The rows should be roughly 10 to 12 feet apart, and should be staggered, not aligned.

Water Wise Landscaping

Prepare Soil Adequately
Good soil is the basis for healthy plants and optimum use of water. The key to good soil is the addition of organic matter, such as compost. Sandy soil will hold water and nutrients better if organic matter is incorporated. Clay will absorb water faster, reducing runoff and erosion, if it is loosened with organic matter. Incorporate approximately 2 to 3 inches of compost, shredded leaves, or other fine organic material into the soil annually.
In locations with established trees and shrubs, it is difficult to incorporate organic matter, but applying and maintaining a 2- to 3-inch layer of an organic mulch (coarse leaves, shredded bark, pine needles, or wood chips) will gradually improve the soil as the humic acid formed by the decomposing material leaches into the ground.

Select Plants Wisely

Decide on the trees, shrubs, and ground covers for your water-wise landscape based on their natural ability to grow well in your area. Select plants that do well with little or no addition of water. Consider native plants as well as introduced species for residential landscapes. Your local Extension agent and nursery personnel can help you identify suitable plants for your location. Limit plants with high water demands to small areas that can be watered efficiently. Grouping plants by water requirements is one way to guard against overwatering some plants and underwatering others.
In general, ground covers require less water than turfgrass, so replacing some of your lawn with a ground cover will conserve water. If you have large deciduous trees in your yard and want to reduce work and water, go natural - allow leaves to accumulate as they would in nature. Plant a few understory shrubs (such as azaleas and rhododendrons), a few understory trees (such as dogwood), and quit raking!

The Compost Bin

A compost pile can be as plain or fancy as you want - you don't even need a bin to make compost. But if you plan to produce compost regularly, consider a permanent compost bin. For convenience and aesthetics, you can choose from numerous commercial composters or construct your own from wooden planks, concrete blocks, used freight pallets, hardware cloth, or chicken-wire.
Before purchasing a commercial composter, determine if it will work effectively in your landscape. It should be well built, economical according to your needs, easy to assemble, and have easy access for turning the compost. It should also be large enough to handle all the leaves in your yard.

Some gardeners build separate bins for each stage of the compost process - one for fresh plant refuse, 'another for the actively composting pile, and a third for the finished compost. When building your own bin, keep one side open for easy access. Also, leave spaces between blocks or planks for aeration - air is essential to the rapid decay of organic materials.

The size of the compost pile determines how effective it will be; piles smaller than 27 cubic feet (3 X 3 X 3) do not hold sufficient heat for the composting to be effective, and piles larger than 125 cubic feet (5 X 5 X 5) do not allow sufficient oxygen to reach the center. Be sure your compost pile is a manageable size.

Benefits of Composting

Compost improves the structure of soil. With the addition of compost, sandy soils hold water better, and clay soils drain faster.
Compost reduces soil erosion and water run-off. Plant roots penetrate compost-rich soil easier and hold the soil in place. Water can run down into lower soil layers, rather than puddle on top of the ground and run off.
Compost provides food for earthworms, soil insects, and beneficial microorganisms.
Compost assists the soil in holding nutrients, thus lessening the need for chemical fertilizers and preventing the leaching of nitrogen into water.
Compost promotes healthy plants which are less susceptible to diseases and insect pests, reducing the need for pesticides.
Composting in your backyard recycles wastes which might otherwise fill up landfills. Leaves, grass, and debris - often raked into the street for collection - tend to clog storm drains and street gutters and are costly to collect, but make excellent compost materials.